Process of making shoes.



A. H. PRENZEL.

- PROCESS OF MAKING SHOES.

. APPLICATION FILED MAY'ZI, 19131 1,131,415.

5 5 E W W FFTUE,

ADAM I-I. PRENZEL, 0F HALIFAX, PENNS MACHINERY COMPANY, OF PATERSON,

JERSEY.

YLVANIA, ASSIGNOR T0 UNITED SHOE NEW JERSEY, A CORPORATION OF NEW PROCESS OF MAKING EaHOES.

Specification of Letters Patent.

Patented; Mar. 9, 1915.

Application filed May 21, 1913. Serial No. 768,973.

To all 107mm it may concern:

Be it known that I, ADAM H. PRENZEL, a citizen of the United States, residing at Halifax, in the county of Dauphin and State of Pennsylvania, have invented certain Improvements in Processes of Making Shoes, of which the following description, in connection with the accompanying drawings, is a specification, like reference characters on the drawings indicating like parts in the several figures.

This invention relates to processes of making shoes and is herein shown as utilized in the manufacture of a shoe of the stitchdown type, although it will be apparent that some of the features of the invention are equally applicable to the manufacture of shoes of other types.

In the manufacture of stitch-down shoes, and particularly in the manufacture of stitch-down shoes by the staple-lasting proc ess, it has been customary, in order that the upper may be properly supported upon the inside of the shoe and in order to take care of the edges of the lining, to provide an insole over which the lining is lasted and upon the bottom of which the lining is pasted down. This attachment of the lining to the insole has been the only attachment of the insole to the rest of the shoe except at the heel end where the insole is usually attached either by tacks employed in lasting in the heel-seat, or by the nails used in the heel nailing operation. Even when the best cement has been used, it has been found that this attachment of the insole is not entirely satisfactory, since with the heat and moisture of the foot it tends to separate from the lining and also tends to curl up at its edges.

An object of the present invention is to improve shoes of the type in which the insole and lining are secured together and also to facilitate the manufacture of these shoes. To this end the insole of the shoe is so prepared before the shoe is assembled upon the last that the lining may be drawn tight over the last and secured to the insole or to a' connecting strip or welt strip upon the insole by permanent, preferably throughand-through, fastenings, such, for example,

as stitches.

A particular object of the invention is the of the process in such manner that insoles of comparatively inexpensive material may be employed without detracting materially from the wearing qualities of the shoe.

An important feature of the invention is the utilization in the practice of the process, of such connecting means that the various steps in securing the lining to the insole may all be performed by machinery in a rapid manner and by comparatively unskilled labor.

In the accompanying drawings, Figure 1 is a perspective View, partly in section, showing an insole which has been prepared in the preferred manner for the attachment of the lining; Fig. 2 is a cross-section showing the insole, upper and lining assembled upon the last and the lining secured to the welt strip of cloth or other material upon the insole; Fig. 3 shows the manner of lasting the shoe; Fig. 4 is a broken perspective of a completed shoe, sectioned to show the relative locations of the different parts; and Fig. 5 illustrates an alternative mode of preparing the insole for the attachment of the lining.

In preparing the insole 2 for the attachment of the lining 6 a welt strip 4 of cloth or other suitable material is secured by stitches 5 to the bottom face of the insole so that a substantial portion of the strip projects beyond the edge of the insole. The stitching of the cloth to the insole 2 is preferably at such a distance from the edge of the insole that the lining 6 may be drawn slightly over the edge, as shown in Fig. 2, during the attachment of the lining 6 to the welt strip 4.. The Welt strip 4 having been attached to the insole, the insole 2, upper 8 and lining 6 are assembled upon a last 10. The upper is then turned back somewhat from the lining 6 and the lining is drawn over the last and over the bottom edge of the insole, and is secured to the welt strip 4, preferably by stitches 11. A convenient means for securing the lining 6 to the Welt strip 4 is the lining lasting machine of m co-pending application Serial No. 861,877 filed September 15, 1914. The lining 6 and welt strip 4 having been secured together, the shoe is ready for the temporary attachment of the outsole 14 preparatory to the lasting operation. In order to provide the proper insulation of the foot from the ground and at the same time to raise the insole 2 somewhat from the outsole let to facilitate the lasting operation, a filling piece 12 of felt, felt paper or other suitable heat insulating material is preferably placed between the outsole and the insole and the outsole is temporarily secured upon the bottom of the insole in any convenient manner, as,

I for example, by tacks.

tom of the outsole and that they will extend substantially transverse to the direction of pull of the stretched upper. A convenient means for lasting the shoe is the machine of m co-pending application Serial No. 725,477, filed Oct. 12, 1912.

The shoe having been lasted in the manner shown in Fig. 3, a welt 18 is laid upon the outturned portion of the upper and the welt 18, upper 8, outturned part of the lining 6, welt strip lof the insole and the outsole 1% are united by stitches 20.

In Fig. 5 is shown an alternative form of insole which requires better material for a satisfactory preparation than the insole shown in Fig. 1. In Fig. 5 the insole is slit in from its edge to form a flexible lip 22 which will serve the purpose of the connect- I ing strip or welt strip.

From the foregoing description it will be noted that the completed shoe made by this process has an insole which is firmly secured to the lining through the welt strip a or flexible lip 22 and that the insole is also secured to the outsole by reason of the fact that the line of stitches 20 which secure the welt, upper, welt strip and outsole together pass through the welt strip and welt. There is thus no opportunity for the lining or the insole to become cause discomfort to the wearer.

The novel shoe herein shown and described is made the subject matter of a co-pending filed Septemwhat I Letapplication, Serial No. 861,820,

ber 15, 1914.

Having described my invention,

claim as new and desire to secure by ters Patent of the United States 1s:-

1. That improvement in the art of making stitch-down shoes which consists in pro viding an insole along its edge with a lip to which the lining may V be secured, assembling an upper, lining and said insole upon a last, independently drawing the liningover the last and drawing together and uniting loose or to wrinkle up and the lower edge of the lining and the insole lip, turning out the lower margin of the upper and securing an outsole to said upper.

2. That improvement in the art of making stitch-down shoes, which consists in providing an insole upon its under face along its edge with a thin, flexible, flat lip to which the lining may be secured, assembling the upper, lining and said insole upon a last, independently drawing the lining over the last and drawing together the inner face of the lower edge of the lining and the upper face of the insole lip, and uniting said lining and said lip near the bottom edge of the insole, turning out the lower margin of the upper, and securing an outsole to said upper.

3. That improvement in the art of making stitch-down shoes which consists in providing an insole along its edge with a lip to which the linin may be secured, assembling an upper, lining and said insole upon a last, drawing together and uniting the lower edge of the lining and'the insole lip, turning out the lower margin of the upper, the edge of the lining and the insole lip, and securing an outsole to the upper and to said outturned edges of the lining and the insole lip.

4. That improvement in the art of making stitch-down shoes which consists in securing to an insole a welt strip having a free edge to which the lining may be secured, assembling the upper, lining and insole upon a last, drawing together and uniting the lower edge of the lining and the free edge of the welt strip, turning out the lower mar- P gin of the upper and securing an outsole to said upper margin and to said welt strip.

5. That improvement in the art of male ing stitch-down shoes which consists in securing a welt strip by one of its edges along the edge of the bottom face of an insole, assembling an upper, lining and said insole upon a last, drawing the lining tight over the last and securing the bottom edge of the lining to the free edge of said welt strip, turning out the lower margin of the upper and securing an outsole to the upper the lower margm of the lining to the free.

edge of said welt strip, turning out the lower margin of the upper and securing an outsole to said outturned margin of the upper,

shoes which consists 1n se-' the lower margin of the lining and the welt strip being interposed between the upper and outsole and secured to said upper and outsole.

7. That improvement in the art of making stitch-down shoes which consists in stitching the edge of a welt strip to the under face of an insole along its edge, assembling said insole and an upper and a lining upon a last, drawing the lower edge of the lining over the edge of the insole, and stitching it to said welt strip beneath the insole, turning back the lining and the welt strip into substantially the plane of the bottom face of the insole, laying an outsole upon said insole, turning out the upper and forcing the angle of the upper between the edge of the insole and the outsole, laying a welt upon the outturned margin of the upper and securing together the welt, lining, welt strip and outsole.

8. That improvement in the art of making stitch-down shoes which consists in stitching the edge of a welt to the bottom face of an insole along its edge, assembling said insole, an upper and a lining upon a last, stitching the lower margin of the lining to said welt strip and turning said lining, margin and welt strip back into substantially the plane of the bottom face of the insole, placing a filling piece and an outsole upon the bottom of the shoe, turning out the lower margin of the upper and forcing Copies of this patent may be obtained for five cents each, by addressing the the angle of the upper between the edge of the insole and the outsole, securing said upper in this position by staples driven through the upper in said angle into the outsole, laying a welt upon the outturned margin of the upper with its edge extending into said angle, and securing together the welt, lining, welt strip and outsole with stitches.

9. That improvement in the art of making shoes which consists in stitching the edge of a welt strip to the bottom face of an insole along its edge from a point near the front end of the heel-seat upon one side to a corresponding point upon the other side, assembling an upper, lining and said insole upon a last, securing the lower margin of the lining to said welt strip throughout the shank and about the forepart, turning in the lining and upper at the heel end, and lasting it down upon the heel end of the insole, turning out the upper, lining margin and welt strip through the shank and about the forepart, and securing said upper, lining and welt strip to an outsole.

In testimony whereof I have signed my name to this specification in the presence of two subscribing witnesses.

L. V. RYAN, G. W. SHULTZ.

Gommissioner o! Batents,

Washington, D. C. 

